The Gilded Age (1870-1900) was a period of lavish wealth and industrial growth in America, and fashion became a key marker of status and success. During this era, clothing reflected the social hierarchy, with the wealthy elite spending fortunes on intricate designs and luxurious materials. A notable stat highlights the extravagance: by the 1890s, elite families spent approximately 10% of their annual income on clothing, an enormous sum compared to the national average.
Fashion during the Gilded Age wasn’t just about aesthetics; it symbolized societal shifts, showcasing the rise of industrial millionaires and the influence of European couture. Today, its legacy inspires designers and remains a focal point for historical and cultural exploration.
Influential Designer of the Gilded Age
Kasia Walicka-Maimone is the costume designer for the HBO show The Gilded Age. Her designs for the show use vintage laces, drapery, and period jewelry to highlight the social tensions between the wealthy and the new money in 1880s New York.
A Brief History of Fashion during the Gilded Age
Women’s Fashion
Women’s clothing was often vibrant and layered, with multiple colors in the same outfit. Bustles were popular in the 1870s and 1880s but were replaced by bell-shaped skirts in the 1890s. Women also wore floor-length gowns with restrictive corsets. Jewel-toned gowns made of silk, velvet, and satin were popular for upper-class women. Brooches, often shaped like flowers, were a popular way to display jewelry
Men’s Fashion
Men wore suits, and jackets were often left unbuttoned. Shirts and waistcoats were often brightly colored, and men carried ornate canes
Fabrics
Japanese fabrics and motifs were popular, and Asian-style clothing and accessories were popularized
Colors
The color palette included deep burgundies, forest greens, and navy blues. Gold and brass accents were also prevalent.
Brand partnerships
The Gilded Age pioneered the idea of brand partnerships, where designers and muses had a mutual commercial relationship.
The Hallmarks of Gilded Age Fashion
Luxurious Fabrics and Intricate
The Gilded Age was synonymous with luxury. Upper-class men and women adorned themselves in garments made from the finest materials, such as silk, velvet, and lace. Embroidery, beadwork, and elaborate patterns were common, showcasing the wearer’s affluence and refined taste.
Corsets and Silhouettes for Women
Women’s fashion during the Gilded Age emphasized structured silhouettes. Corsets were essential, cinching waists to create the coveted hourglass figure. Bustles, which added volume to the back of skirts, became a defining feature of the era. Evening gowns often featured low necklines, long trains, and ornate embellishments, reflecting a woman’s social standing.
Tailored Elegance for Men
The opulence of Gilded Age fashion continues to captivate designers and historians. Recent television series, such as HBO’s The Gilded Age, have reignited interest in the period’s style. Modern fashion houses often draw inspiration from Gilded Age aesthetics, incorporating corsetry, ornate embellishments, and dramatic silhouettes into contemporary designs.
Gilded Age in Modern Culture
The opulence of Gilded Age fashion continues to captivate designers and historians. Recent television series, such as HBO’s The Gilded Age, have reignited interest in the period’s style. Modern fashion houses often draw inspiration from Gilded Age aesthetics, incorporating corsetry, ornate embellishments, and dramatic silhouettes into contemporary designs.
Conclusion
Gilded Age fashion was more than clothing; it was a visual representation of an era marked by ambition, innovation, and stark contrasts. From the dazzling ballrooms of New York to the bustling streets shaped by industrialization, fashion captured the spirit of a transformative time. Today, its legacy endures, reminding us of the power of style to reflect and shape society.
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